There’s something different about returning to somewhere you once called home. Northern Italy isn’t new to me – I spent a couple of years living in Milan between 2022-23 – but last summer felt a little less like exploration and more reminiscent. I wasn’t there to chase landmarks or tick boxes, it was more following a feeling.
I flew into Milan in July from London, planning to leave before August when the country collectively exhales into holiday mode. From there, trains and buses became my loose itinerary – Bologna, Rimini, San Marino, Genova – each stop a little shift rather than a big change. Milan felt like home again because of the friends waiting there, the conversations that picked up as if no time had passed. The smaller towns, though, were quieter. Just me, my backpack, and freedom to wander.
My days became simple in my favourite way. A cappuccino each morning – always sitting, never rushed. Long walks with no destination beyond curiosity. Trying a local dish for lunch, resting or working through the warm afternoons, then heading back out for another walk before dinner. Productivity softened. Time stretched. I remembered how to exist without constantly measuring output.
One evening in Bologna, I stumbled across an outdoor cinema set up in the main square. I’d been out on my way to find dinner, feeling a little lonely honestly, when the flicker of a screen caught my attention. I grabbed a takeaway pasta and sat among strangers watching a film under the open sky. I was alone, but no longer lonely. Surrounded by quiet community, the feeling shifted into something warm and unexpectedly comforting – the kind of moment that doesn’t look very dramatic but stays with you long after.
Food became a subtle language of place. Pesto in Genova tasted richer and brighter – maybe with the surrounding towns feeling just as vivid, with the pastel buildings lining the water. In Bologna mortadella and tagliatelle al ragu felt less like meals and more like small introductions to the city itself. Rimini meant gelato in the late afternoon heat, and some evenings drifted easily into aperitivo – an Aperol or Hugo spritz, sunlight lingering longer. Nothing extravagant, just leaning into the local dishes and letting food lead the day a little.
Northern Italy works beautifully for a slower style of travel. Trains connect most cities easily, making it so simple to move between larger hubs like Milan and other towns like Como, Verona, Venice, Rimini, Genova – all without too much planning. Each stop offers something different – lakeside views, historic centres, seaside promenades and distinct regional dishes worth trying!
If you’re visiting in summer, arriving in July and leaving before mid- August can help you avoid peak holiday closures and crowds. Prioritise slow morning cafes, evening walks and leaving room in your schedule for unexpected finds – whether that’s a local market, a film screening in a town square or a restaurant you hadn’t planned on.
For me, it’s a place that works best when you let it unfold slowly rather than trying to cover everything at once. A few well-connected towns, good walking shoes and a willingness to try whatever dish the region is known for goes a long way. The highlights often end up being the small, unplanned moments rather than the major landmarks.
– Alexx
Alex's Adventures 